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You can effectively extend a touring holiday of Europe by
several days and perhaps save money. To do it you need a Eurail
pass and a little forward planning. This is how it works. With a
Eurail Pass you can go from city center to city center in Europe
in great comfort at a reasonable price. The key to this is the
phrase 'city center to city center'. Consider Paris. The
airport, Charles de Gaulle, is 23 km north-east of Paris. If you
go by taxi in either direction it costs the national debt and
takes 45 minutes. There are regular buses and trains but your
journey is never going to be less than 45 minutes. Leaving, you
have security to go through and the airlines would like you
there well before take-off. At least an hour, sometimes two
hours. Thus on any flight you find that as much as six hours,
never less than four, are spent getting to the airport, checking
in, flying, getting there and collecting your luggage. Then
getting to the center of your destination. By train, in every
capital in Europe (I have searched and found no exception) you
arrive in the center of the city. Yes, you need to be at the
train station ten minutes before the train leaves -- make it
fifteen minutes to be on the safe side -- and when you get to
your destination it is instant arrival. Your baggage is with you
and you are there, bang in the center of the city. To test this
stay with Paris for the moment. At Easter -- one of the busiest
times of the year for Paris -- I arrived at Gare de L'Est, one
of the main stations of Paris. In the station was the tourist
help desk -- every station in Europe has a help desk. There I
explained what I wanted -- an inexpensive (as in under 50 Euros
a night) room in a hotel near Place Republique with a view over
the rooftops of Paris. And I got it confirmed in ten minutes and
went happily on my way. (In passing, it was the most romantic
room I have ever had in a hotel anywhere and this was Paris in
the spring and the chestnuts were in bloom and, alas, I was
alone.) On this trip I traveled from Salerno in Sicily right
through Italy and then France, on to Spain to Barcelona to
wonder at the work of Gaudi, back to Greece and then up again to
Germany to Mainz. I had a lot of ground to cover and this was
the best and least expensive and most pleasurable way. I saved a
lot of time and a lot of money. (And, if you are interested in
old motorcycles you should know that I spent my birthday touring
Sicily on a 350cc Royal Enfield which was an exact replica of
the sixties model but made in Madras. I could have hired the 500
cc model but thought that going a bit over the top.) You will
typically only be dealing with relatively short travel times --
Paris to Lyon is two hours, Amsterdam to Cologne three hours,
Geneva to Paris three-and-a-half hours and so on -- and these
will be pleasurable experiences because the trains are fast,
comfortable (especially in first class) and wonderfully quiet.
The best example of the modern trains of Europe are the TGV
trains of France, which are part of the EuroCity network. I am
writing this while I travel on the TGV express -- TGV stands for
Train a Grande Vitesse which translates, roughly, as high speed
train -- from Paris to Avignon. The quietness -- we are running
on rubber tyres -- is eerie. This is first class, and there is a
three seat configuration in the carriage -- two and one. I am in
the single seat, which is adjustable and comfortable. There is a
tip-down table, on which rests my computer. We are now nipping
through the suburbs of Paris at more than 200 kilometres an
hour. We will eventually reach our maximum cruise speed, which
is more than 270 kilometres an hour. There is no sway, no
rattle, no lurch, no jerk. A gentleperson's conveyance for the
grand tour of Europe. For trains between big cities, the best
bets are the super fast name trains like (ah ! the romance in
the names) Catalan Tago, Maria Theresa, Voltaire, Leonardo da
Vinci, Etoile du Nord. These are very fast and are almost never
late. Sometimes you will use the train only as high-speed,
economical and comfortable transport, but at other times the
train ride can be a sightseeing trip as well. Bernina Express in
Switzerland, the Bergen Express in Norway, the Loisirail in
France are examples where the journey is part of the scenic
holiday. Important points to remember: • Bear in mind that
Europeans very sensibly use a 24-hour clock in matters of this
sort. That is: five o'clock in the afternoon becomes 1700 hours
and half-past nine in the evening is 2130. Easy once you get the
hang of it. • As you start your train journeys you need to have
your Eurailpass validated, for which you will have to show your
passport. Do it before you get on any train at the information
window of any largish railway station. You will be given back
your ticket and a validation slip. • Keep your validation slip
separate from the ticket. It constitutes proof of ownership. (If
you are a worry wart like me, make a photocopy of both straight
away and remember to keep the copy in the lining of your
suitcase.) • Make sure you go to the right station. Every city
in Europe has several different railway stations. This TGV train
I am riding started from Gare de Lyon in Paris. But there are
six other mainline train stations in that city of light. The
concierge at your hotel will advise you. • When you get to the
station make sure you get on the right platform and into the
right car. The signs are always very clear and railway staff are
always most helpful. There will be a board confirming the name,
number and time of departure of the train at the entrance to the
platform when you get there. • Getting into the right car, as
opposed to the right train, is essential; in modern trains it is
the car that is sent by computer control to its destination. On
the side of every car is an identification panel that tells you
the number of the car, where the car is heading and the names of
the most important stops on the way. Check the panel carefully
and, if you are still in doubt, show your ticket to the
conductor of the train and explain exactly where you are going.
• Limits. An Eurail pass is for x number of journeys over a
given period of time. Do not waste the pass on short trips.
Example: I was in Nice and had to go to Cannes. I went by train
and bought a ticket. You do not waste your Eurail Pass on
journeys on trips that take less than an hour. • Ubiquity. Every
station seems to have a Eurail booking desk. Be organized and
try and book as far ahead as you can if you want a sleeper.
These trains do get fully booked, especially during the holiday
season, and the earlier you book, the more certain you are of
getting the right train. • Sleep on the train. If it is a very
long journey take the evening train and sleep on board. On a
first class Eurail tickets the sleeper is part of the package.
This has great advantages. It saves you the cost of one night's
accommodation and it gets what could be a longish journey over
in considerable comfort and style. For example, I went from
Salerno in Sicily right up the leg of Italy to Genoa and did it
on a night train and slept like a baby. One has to be careful.
There is a story about a passionate young couple who used their
sleeper not for sleeping. In a moment of ecstasy the young lady
hung on like mad to the nearest object. Sadly, it was the
emergency stop communication cord. • If possible, take your own
snacks. There was a thought in my mind that food on European
trains would be a gourmet's delight. In my experience, it is
very far from that. On the other hand, almost all station
restaurants serve good food at very reasonable prices provided
you stay away from the fast food chains. • Get the right stop.
As you come into a city make sure you do not get off at a
suburban stop which is, typically, the stop before the central
station. If in doubt, ask the ticket inspector or the guard. No
need to be able to speak the language. Just show your ticket and
they will tell you what to do. • Travel light. If you cannot
easily carry your baggage you are stuffed. Porters do not exist.
Not at any station I have ever seen. • Use all of the pass. When
planning your itinerary, be bold. You can go from Greece to Oslo
and pretty much everywhere else in between. • Not the UK. All of
this applies to Europe except for Britain. A Eurail Pass does
not work there. Britain is not part of Europe. Whatever made you
think otherwise? Sites which can help Eurail
http://www.eurail.com/ It claims, correctly, that it is the only
official Eurail site. This is true. But it is not the only site
that can give you information. And it is certainly not the only
site that can sell you tickets. It does, however, make a very
good starting point because from here you can sort out potential
timings and itineraries. Europe
http://www.raileurope.com/us/index.htm This is not the official
site but it might just as well be considered as such. There is
nothing about Eurail that it does not know. Europe by Eurail
http//www.railpass.com Again, this is a commercial firm selling
tickets but that does not stop it having a load of useful
information on the site. Boots 'n All Travel
http://www.bootsnall.com/eurail/ Would you buy a ticket from a
company with a name like that? Let us not be snobbish. It has
great expertise on Eurail and its site is very helpful. Eurail
Net http://www.eurailnet.com/ Sounds official but it is still a
commercial company selling tickets. You will not find much
differential in prices between the companies but you will find a
wealth of information on sites such as this and work out the
most economical pass for your particular trip.
About the author:
Gareth Powell is a publisher, journalist and author. His travel
writings are mainly on http://www.travelhopefully.com.
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