In part two of 'How To Make Homebrew' we discussed the process of boiling the wort and adding the yeast, then setting the mixture aside for fermentation. Now we are ready for the final steps.

How To Make Homebrew: Secondary Fermentor

'Racking' the homebrew to a secondary fermentor is an optional step that not all homebrewers follow. If you do decide to implement this step, be aware that the homebrew is highly susceptible to infection at this time, and sanitization is critical.

Transferring, or 'racking', the beer to a secondary fermentor is done to remove as much sediment from the beer as possible, and to avoid a possible condition known as autolysis, a breakdown of the yeast. Once the fermentation has ceased - that is the gas is no longer bubbling out of the airlock - it is safe to transfer the beer. Sanitize a second bucket, and using a sanitized siphon, transfer the beer out of the primary fermentor. This is best done by filling the sanitized siphon with a bit of boiled and cooled water, then pinching the end of the siphon. It does not matter if a bit more water is added to the beer at this stage, but bacteria from your mouth sucking on the tube in order to start the siphon action would be enough to spoil the beer. You can also carefully pour the beer from one fermentor to the next, but this usually stirs up the sediment too much.

After the beer has been transfered, put the lid and airlock back on, and let the mixture sit for at least two weeks. You may notice a little bit more action out to the airlock; this is normal.

How To Make Homebrew: Bottling

At last we come to the final step in homebrewing; bottling the beer. There are three basic options for bottles: glass with bottle caps, plastic with threaded tops, and 'Grolsch' style bottles, with a washer and metal clamp. Glass bottles are preferable, but capped bottles require a special tool and sometimes leak, resulting in flat beer. Plastic bottles are convenient and rarely leak, but do have to be replaced occasionally, and have a less professional look.

Whichever you choose, the bottles need to be cleaned and sanitized before use. Bottles should be cleaned out with a bottling brush, then cleaned with sanitizing solution. An easy way to sanitize the bottles is to run them through the dishwasher with the hottest temperature. Allow the bottles to drain and do not rinse with tap water unless it has been boiled.

The homebrew has to be 'primed' again for carbonation. There are still some live yeast in the solution, and to activate them requires some sugar. Boil ¾ of a cup corn sugar in some water and let it cool. If you have already racked the homebrew to a secondary fermentor, this solution can be added directly to that. Otherwise, add the solution to a sanitized bucket, and transfer the homebrew to it, taking care not to splash the beer or stir up the sediment in the bottom. It is best to keep the siphon hose about an inch off the bottom of the fermentor to prevent sediment from being sucked into the siphon. Again, make sure that everything that comes in contact with the beer has been sanitized.

Gently stir the mixture to ensure the sugar is mixed evenly. Again, fill the hose with sanitizing solution and pinch one end. Place an end of the hose in the bucket one inch from the bottom, and put the other end into some container. Release the pinch and allow the sanitizing solution to drain, which will start the siphon action and start draining beer. Of course, the bucket must be higher than the bottles in order to siphon properly.

Once the beer has started to flow, you can fill the bottles. Try not to splash the beer, as you don't want to introduce extra oxygen at this point. Gently fill the bottle from the bottom up, leaving sufficient room at the top of each bottle or the carbonation will force the lid. If you have a hose-pincher, or an assistant, you can close the bottles as you go with sanitized caps. Otherwise, you will have to fill all the bottles before you can begin capping. Remember, the homebrew is very susceptible to infection at this point so the sooner you can close up the bottles the better.

That's it! You now have a batch of beer ready to be aged. Two months of aging will improve the flavor a great deal, but the carbonation process should be done in about two weeks and the beer could be drunk then. Try to keep the beer at a room temperature of about 70F, or about ten degrees cooler. The cooler the beer, the slower the carbonation process, but the better the flavor. Of course if it is too cool then carbonation won't happen at all. Do not store the homebrew in the refrigerator until after the carbonation process has ended.

That is an overview of the homebrewing process. Homebrewing is a fun and rewarding hobby, that will also save you a lot of money if you enjoy drinking beer. You may find that after making your own homebrew your expectations from commercial beer will be increased, and you might try a lot of different beer varieties, especially beer from microbreweries. Also, if you can interest some friends or find like-minded people in your area, swapping homebrew to try out different flavors is also a fun and educational activity.

Happy homebrewing!

About the Author

Create your own Liquid-Gold Homebrew for only $5.27 per gallon! Get started right away with this How To Make Homebrew package that teaches you everything you need to know about making great Beer At Home!

Brent Craig is an author and a journalist with a dedicated interest in how to make homebrew. For more information, please visit: http://www.HomeBrewPerfection.com